Burda, Coats and Jackets

Black Amethyst Spring Coat


Black Amethyst, AKA Burda February 08 #117
I’m not really sure what I may say about it that will be useful… Dear Laura’s review was fantastic and there’s really not much I may add! The pattern is very well drafted. It was of course awesome (for me 😉 ) that it was designed for petites! No need to tweak the pattern.
I was tremendously inspired by Laura’s own experience, doing a Hong-Kong seam finish like her, topstitching the collar and lapels as she did too – this did help tremendously with the collar’s floppiness. Thanks so much, Laura. 🙂
The only other change I added was to lengthen the sleeves from 3/4 to full length, to have the ability of wearing this with a long-sleeved top.

This pattern requires a lot of work, precision, and dedication… Especially if you’re a sucker for punishment and decide to make it in a slippery, wrinkled taffeta, which therefore cannot be pressed during the sewing. This made the cutting, tracing, measuring and sewing so much more difficult. In the end, though, I found it well worth it. I love the combination in textures of the vertical wrinkles and the horizontal topstitching.

A word on the fabric: Seb and I chose it together on one of our precious weekend walks around Paris (this one comes from le marché Saint-Pierre, premier étage, I think). It is a wrinkled taffetas woven with two different threads: the warp is an iridescent amethyst, and the weft is black. I know each picture shows a slightly different hue; well, they’re all here, in real life.

This coat was a first in several respects:
– inseam pockets (oh, I love the pockets! I love the ability to put my hands in the pockets while I strut about Paris)
– Hong-Kong seam finish (with aubergine satin bias tape)
– shoulder pads
– stand-up collar (this was the most difficult step in the whole process – I spent soo much time and ripped many a seam getting that darn collar right!).

Giving myself this challenge at a time where my work is itself such a huge endeavour, might have been a little much, and there were times when I thought so. But I don’t regret it. I like a challenge!

This is one of my favourite creations so far – one of those I’m most proud of, and enjoy wearing most.

When I arrived at my parents’ wearing this last week, my mother insisted on photographing me in the garden right away. She also said, at once – what a pity Mamie isn’t there to see it.
I still haven’t come to terms with my grandma not being here anymore. I’ve been through mourning before, but losing Mamie a year ago has been the most difficult thing in my life. It still is.
However, I’ve realized I need to do thing as well as if she were there, and could see them. Sewing is both a way to try and get closer to her, it is my own special way of remembering her (she comes alive again in my mind while I sew, I can see and hear her); but it is also a cause for renewed sadness, that there is so much that we cannot share anymore.


Seb knows so well how important this project was to me, that he gave me an amethyst necklace and earrings set for my birthday, to match. How thoughtful is this?
The set comes from Etsy, too, meaning it is handcrafted and one of a kind. A perfect match indeed.

Simplicity must have a special carrier from their warehouse to Paris, because the order I placed a couple of days ago, and which I was mentioning earlier today, was waiting for me at the PO tonight! Miss Cutie approves of the patterns.


I’ll be away and offline until next week… So long, everybody!

58 thoughts on “Black Amethyst Spring Coat”

  1. Hello my dear Isabelle !You can be proud of you, your coat is wonderful. I love the fabric, the colour is beautiful.I think today I will (one more time) watch Pride and Prejudice, I’m really willing to since I watch Jane.Big kisses for you, Seb and the fluffy beauty (or may I say “inspectrice des travaux finis, en cours et à venir” …).

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  2. Isabelle, you really outdone yourself with this spring coat!!! I LOVE IT!! It’s so well made and it suits you beautifully! A+++ for this one!Many hugs from a very hot and sunny Portugal (finally!)

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  3. Hi Isabelle,That coat is beyond beautiful – what a talent you are blessed with. It is hard to believe a year has passed. Time moves fast and it is so hard to lose someone we dearly love so much; it doesn’t get easier because the feeling of loss is always there but you have to know she is looking down on you and smiling BIG and so proud.Hugs,Tanya

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  4. Bonjour Isabelle,Je reste une fidèle lectrice de ton blog 😉C’est une merveille ce manteau !!! Quelle excellente couturière tu es ! Bravo !Olivia

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  5. That’s such a beautiful color of taffeta! You turned it into quite a work of art. Congratulations! It sounds like you put a lot of hard work into it and will get years of enjoyment out of it, as a result.

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