Suun Dress in Mistletoe

I have been wanting to consign more of my sewing on my blog, if only as a useful memento for myself. Today, I want to share my latest garment, and definitely one of my favourite makes this year: a winter Suun Dress in a beloved fabric.

Pattern: Suun Blouse or Dress by P&M Patterns. This pattern is available both in French and English, as a paper pattern and as a PDF.

Fabric: Mistletoe Viscose by Lise Tailor.

Pattern Review

Suun is a blouse or a dress with options for 3 necklines, 2 types of sleeves, and 3 lengths. Its main design feature are the gathers at the front shoulder, and the yoke running from the back to these gathers, which can be accented with piping. The original dress is cinched at the lower waist.

As the blouse has a good amount of ease, I cut a straight size 36 (whereas I usually go with a 38 for the front pieces at the bust and a 36 for the back piece, at the waist and the hips). I opted for the higher neckline per the pattern recommendation for petite builds, and it sits just right on me.

It is the third time this year I have sewn a pattern from P&M Patterns. I made a Mome Blouse in the spring, and a Joséphine Dress in late May. I can now attest that Karine’s pattern instructions are the clearest and most intuitive I have ever followed, whilst the finishing details are exquisite. You feel handheld through the whole sewing process, which makes for a relaxing and satisfying experience from the layout of pattern on the fabric to the final touches; and you are left with a beautifully finished, well-proportioned garment.

(Lipstick: Purobio organic lipstick in shade 4)

My Alterations

As often, I chose to have a number alterations to have this dress suit both my build and my style:

  • Instead of closing the sleeve at the wrist with a wristband, I opted to insert an elastic. I find this helps the sleeve not ride up to the upper arm when slipping on a cardigan.
  • As I am petite, and to suit my hourglass figure and my preferred silhouette, I raised the waistline to my natural waist.
  • I opted to add a channel to insert the elastic at the waist inside the garment. This made for a cleaner finish, and it puts much less strain on the fabric than if I had sewn the elastic directly onto it.
  • I lengthened the length of the midi skirt by 7 cm. (Bear in mind that I am 154 cm and you may need to lengthen the skirt considerably more if you are taller.)
  • I added a ruffle at the bottom for a maxi length on me.

Fabric Review

This is the final installment in Lise Tailor‘s 2019 autumn-winter fabric collection, and it is stunning! The print is both striking and delicate enough to create elegant garments. Honestly, who better than Lise can manage to create a Christmassy fabric that is also the epitome of class?

My friend Lise was so generous and sent me this fabric as a gift. I can honestly say my Christmas is complete! The opinion I share here, however, is my own, and candid.

This type of viscose is easy to sew in terms of handle, as it is quite stable, and non slippery. It gathers beautifully. As with any fabric printed digitally in dark colours, you do need to be very delicate when pinning and sewing, due to the printing process. I used 0.60-mm pins and was careful to pin only inside the seam allowances, even when cutting out the pattern. I also used 0.70-mm microtex needles both in my sewing machine and in my serger.

I know a number of people shy away from green, as it has been so ingrained in us from magzines etc. that it is an unflattering colour, but I personally love wearing shades of green on the cooler side.

Conclusion

The whole making process was a delight thanks to a stellar pattern and to the joy of handling this gorgeous fabric. As for wearing this dress… It is utter heaven, and I feel fabulous in it! I love the Edwardian vibe of the blousy bodice and of the long, ruffled skirt.

Lastly, I did want to acknowledge the kindness and help of my family for this shoot. Saturday was very stormy here, but as soon as the sun started timidly peeking out in the afternoon, the whole family happily went to this lovely spot for pictures. Seb so kindly – and skillfully must I add! – took these pictures whilst the kids very patiently waited next to us – with my daughter taking pictures of her little brother with my phone!

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